Costa Rica - San Jose, La Fortune, Arenal, Monteverde

Wednesday 28th September - San Jose

Well, I survived the flight, just about.  But not everything can go to plan.  My hostel pick up messed up.  He said he was there.  I know he wasn't.  And the hostel still charged me $10 for the pleasure of having to spend $20 on a taxi.  Ah well, I didn't care at that stage.  Just needed a bed!  So after an easy night and sleep, time to explore San Jose.

I have read in the Lonely Planet that there are stories of lost cities from Costa Rica, but none of the evidence has been found.  But there are areas yet to be explored because of the inaccessibility of the mountains and rainforest.  Hmmm...maybe the fabled lost city of Eldorado, where the streets are said to be paved with gold?  Well, one thing I can say for sure about San Jose is that Eldorado it isn't.  How do I know?  These streets aren't paved with gold.  How do I know?  Well, because they aren't really paved with anything at all!  There are gaping holes that would make a skydiver flinch.  I'm talking ravines here.  Holes in the ground where manhole covers just seem to have upped sticks and moved on to pastures new.  Thankfully this was something I discovered during the day, and not in a dramatic way in the dark evenings.

Now, I am not a city person at all, so my opinions on San Jose (and all cities for that matter) should be taken with a pinch of salt.  But I think there's not a lot to do here.  I walked downtown, that adventure lasted one hour.  I took a walk to San Pedro.  That adventure lasted one hour.  I took a walk to...  I think you get the picture.  What's the word I'm looking for here...oh yes, dull!

But all that said, what I need right now is a few days to chill out, and relax into this trip so it's perfect.

Thursday 29th September - San Jose

NEWFLASH! - Excitement in San Jose!  After taking  a walk to Spoon for a great breakfast I ran into the middle of a big student protest.  These Ticos know how to protest.  And at least peacefully .  Lots of music and floats.  It was the first thing I felt compelled to take my camera out for.  And while chasing this demo through windy and very steep streets, I ran straight into another protest at an embassy.  No idea what that one was for.  Maybe it's a pastime in Costa Rica on a Thursday.  Who knows.

The thunderstorms in Costa Rica are constant and amazing.  I'll never grow tired of spending the evening staring at the lightening and waiting for the claps of thunder which can physically shake you.

Friday 30th September - San Jose to La Fortuna

This is where the trip really begins...

After a five hour bus journey in cramped and deceptively uncomfortable seats, I arrive in La Fortuna, the gateway to Volcán Arenal.  It was 30C and monsoon rain, but after  one step onto the main street and glancing west, the pain of the journey instantly melted away.  In the distance, in all its glory, stood Arenal, towering over the town.  What a view!  I made my way to the hostel, Arenal Backpackers Resort.  More like a hotel than a hostel.  Excellent place.  After checking in, made my way to The Lava Lounge for a bite to eat and a drink.

An issue I've had in Spain and now here is  people coming up to me and instantly unleashing a torrent of Spanish at me.  My confused look leaves them perplexed.  'Hablo Espanol, pero solo un pocito' I reply, at which point they are amazing to discover I am Irish.  In The Lava Lounge, the LA owner actually replied, 'How are you not Spanish?  I swore you were'.  I wonder is this and the constant security checks related.  Do I look like some most-wanted Spaniard?!

After that, bumped into one of my dormers and spent the evening having drinks and back at the hostel playing Shithead.  I was the Shithead.  No surprises there.

Then...AFL Grand Final Time.  Collingwood -vs- Geelong.  After fighting to get it on the internet I got to listen to the second half.  Wish the internet had been messed up all night.  Enough said.

Something confusing and frustrating me about Costa Rica is the currency.  The official currency is Colones.  But everywhere accepts American Dollars.  The ATMs even dispense them.  I work in Colones though.  But, when I ask for something and they say the dollar price, I ask for the Colones price.  At which point they go, 'Oh, the exchange rate changed today, I'll have to work it out'.  Err...no!  Surely the Colones price should be fixed the dollar price move.  There's a scam going on there somewhere.

Saturday 1st October - La Fortuna -  Poor Spanish (book that is)

This trip is a time when I'm hoping that my Spanish will come on in leaps and bounds.  Not so far...  I have a Spanish phrase and word book.  After studiously checking a few words (plasters and padlock) I confidently stride up the street armed with my new vocab.  Well I crawled back after having to use some elaborate hand signals and play numerous charade games to get what I wanted.  This is not going to be easy.  I blame the word book.  The words for the two items I wanted - completely different here than in Spain.  From this point, I'm going to make the words up.  It'll be more fun.  Or else I'll come back a master at charades and speak no Spanish.

Katharine arrived, pretty much as I did, in the middle of a monsoon.  After being trapped in a coffee shop, spent the night in The Lava Lounge (again, but it is good).

There were three New Zealand guys staying in my room, Bridget and here son and his mate.  We've swapped details and all going to plan I'll be giving them a call when I hit New Zealand.  They said they live close to White Island which is perfect.

Sunday 2nd October - Arenal Tour - 'DON'T TAKE ANYTHING!'

A stroll around La Fortuna in 30C heat at 9 am and sunshine, we stop by Red Lava Tours to book a tour to Arenal that day.  I investigated it yesterday after it was recommended to me by a Canadian couple, who had it recommended to them by a 'local' on the bus to La Fortuna.  All booked to head off at two o'clock.  What a laugh!

The tour picks us up - Katharine and I all kitted out in our hiking gear as told to by the organisers.  Next stop - pick up two girls, one Costa Rican, one from Nicaragua, who are dressed for the beach.  We are then joined by another four Israelis.

The bus makes its way to Arenal Observatory Lodge, the perfect stop to see the lava flowing down the side of Arenal, especially at night,  Or at least it was one year ago.  We had been warned so knew what (not) to expect.  Apparently in October 2010 Arenal, which had been pouring lava for years, suddenly stopped for no known reason.  But it didn't matter.  It still looked spectacular.  The old lava flow trails were visible and it towered over us like a sleeping monster, with the sound of howler monkeys in the distance setting the scene perfectly.  Luckily the clouds had cleared and we could see the top.  On the journey up, the bus stopped and we could see smoke rising out of the volcano.  There's still some action happening there.  I wished for an eruption.  It would have meant possible death.  But hey, it would have been the perfect viewing spot.

After a short trek through the forest and a supposed glimpse of spider monkeys, we made our way back to see the sunset.  Now let me point out that at this stage it's raining, the clouds are black, there's the constant distant rumble of thunder and our guide is promising that a spectacular sunset is still possible.  As Katharine and I get left behind reading about the volcano and watching the seismograph in the museum, the rest carry on and we end up lost.  After being reunited with the group by an annoyed tour guide venturing back to find us, one of the Israeli guys recounts how the intrepid guide explained, 'Now we will hopefully see a sunset in the next...' at which point two huge flashes of lightening leap from the apocalyptic sky.  We saw no sunset.  But enjoyed a great lightening display.

Next it's off to the hot springs for a dip, a nice relief from the rain.  On the way we stop and we get to see a brightly coloured tree frog - impressive - before moving onwards to the hot springs.  Well, where do I start?  The weather has not changed.  Still raining, and for once in Costa Rica it's cold.  While in the bus, the guide starts to explain that we can take nothing with us but our swimwear.  This perplexes us.  It's pitch black.  It's raining.  We are in the middle of nowhere. We lavish him with questions, to which he has one simple instruction - 'DON'T TAKE ANYTHING.  Nothing.  It'll get washed away!'  So, after a quick change in the bus, we all step out into the dark, in nothing but swimwear, cross a mountain road, gingerly make our way down a rocky path, guided only by a few dim flashlights to, well, I don't know what!  There's a huge bin overflowing with garbage, a fast flowing stream with murky water that's kind of warm at times.  We all wait as the guide tests it out.  He gets very annoyed when I shine my head torch in his eyes, then proclaims, 'It's not right, it's too cold, too much rain water, we'll come back later'.  I'm thinking, 'Right, where's Jeremy Beadle?'  So after a much agreed blank look at each other, we all trudge back to the bus - cold, wet, and certainly not revived after a dip in a hot spring.  And pretty much here endeth the tour after being ferried back our hostel.  It was so bizarre it was funny.  You have to love days like these.  A bite to eat in a local fast food place and a drink in The Lava Lounge ended the evening.

And speaking of lava.  La Fortuna sign makers are gonna have a field day soon if Arenal decides to have a long slumber.  Everything is 'Lava this' or 'Lava that'.  No lava my friends.  Name changes needed.

But regardless, Arenal was my first volcano and it didn't disappoint.  They are beautiful, magnificent wonders of nature and always let us know who really rules this planet...THEM.

Monday 3rd October - Catarata La Fortuna

My favourite day so far.  Katharine and I went on a six hour trek to Catarata La Fortuna, a beautiful waterfall in the hills around Arenal, with a pool at the bottom which we swam in.  To get there the hike was mostly up hill, very steep at times, but was worth it.  Then down over 400 steps to reach the base of the waterfall and jump in the pool.  A welcome cooling-down swim after the sweltering trek.  On the way back stopped off at an eco lodge for some food, and then a trek back to La Fortuna.  I can't really explain why it was so good: the beautiful county side, Garden of Eden-esque waterfall, the views, the company, the chat, the houses, the suspicious chickens, the cute dogs.

Then some classy Costa Rican TV - Mañana Es Para Siempre.  What a laugh.  Benny Hill meets Day of Our Lives.

Tuesday 4th October - La Fortuna to Monteverde

Pretty quiet day.  Spent most of it relaxing by the pool in the hostel and then off by Jeep-Boat-Jeep to Monteverde.  The man-made lake we crossed is huge and has great views of Arenal in the background.  After the boat, a very steep and windy trip up to Monteverde.  Checked in and chilled out for the night.  Cindy - a girl sharing with Katharine at La Fortuna was there.  Ate more pizza than humanly possible and went to The Tree House for one very over priced beer.

Wednesday 5th October - Ziiiiiip Lining

As most people know, me and heights are not good friends.  I get terrified playing computer games that have high buildings in them!  So today was a massive challenge, but that's what this trip is all about.  A Canopy Tour - basically, flying along zip lines over the top of forests.  It was sensational.  Somehow I did it all - the big zip lines,  the Tarzan Swing (just about), and the best part, the Superman - a 1 km zip line 120m above the forest floor.  I did almost kill one of the instructors.  But it wasn't my fault.  On one line they said, 'Don't brake.'  Now I don't know about anyone else but to me that means - don't brake.  So I'm hurtling along, too busy looking at the views and screaming lots of words I won't put here, and all of a sudden there's a platform one foot away, with three guys in terror as I hurtle towards them and almost knock them off, while I almost plough straight through the tree.  The rest of the tour are standing, jaws dropped wondering how I survived and didn't take anyone else with me.

The Tarzan Swing was the worst.  For all the zip lines we were strapped in.  For this, you have to jump off a platform from a great height and trust the swing will kick in.  I backed off, pleading with the instructors, questioned everything, then thought, 'To hell with it' and just jumped.  It was so scary, but the adrenalin rush was intense.

Then the Superman.  By far the best.  Strapped in a Superman pose to a 1 km long zip line, they fire you off - as you fly straight out, the valley floor blow drops away and you end up looking down at the most amazing landscape from the the best possible viewpoint.  No words.  Check it out - www.monteverdeextemo.com

After getting back to the hostel, we pretty much turned on our heels and heading off with Cindy on the Don Juan Coffee Tour.  Very interesting.  A small plantation for coffee production on a small scale and only sold in Costa Rica.  The guide was very funny.  The main thing learnt - only buy light roasted coffee. dark roasted is just not the same as it has lost more of its flavour and caffeine.  Take note coffee lovers.

Spent the evening in a local Ticos bar, Amigos, with lots of karaoke.  Fun night had.  Wednesday night appears to be the big one in Monteverde/Santa Elena by the looks of things.