Panama - Panama City, Columbia - Bogotá

Monday 17th October - Questions Answered

Today I did absolutely nothing.  Just relaxed around the hostel, sorted photos and typed up this blog.  Days like these are needed to chill out and relax.  So for today's update, I'll go over a few things like questions people have asked.  I know updates for every day, even when I do little, can be dull but I want to keep track of each day as after this is all over and in years to come when I want to read over it, I'll have everything here.  So apologies for the dull stuff.  Now to answer a few questions.

My gear - Great.  The Teva sandals I got are by far the best purchase I made for travelling.  Use them every day and perfect for trekking on hot days if the terrain isn't too rough.  If it is more challenging terrain, out come the Salomon boots.  Again perfect.  I didn't realise how waterproof they were until I had to wade across a stream.  All the rest (waterproofs, hiking trousers) are doing their job rightly.  Except my Converse which cut the feet off me.  But I've worn them in now.

Food - That's been mixed.  I'm not really a go-hunt-good-food person.  It's all functional for me.  Costa Rica was pretty standard.  Mind you the burgers in Hostel Pangea were amazing.  Panama has proved to be beans, rice and fried chicken.  Cheap, basic but very filling.  I think this could continue for a while at the prices.  Especially after Costa Rica being so expensive.

Music - where do I start?  Absolutely woeful.  Most of the hostels play horrendous reggae music.  I don't mind reggae, but this is some sort of horrible mutation that leaves your ears bleeding.  There have been a few good bars with a little better music and in Hostel Pangea we put on a music TV channel and they played Explosions In The Sky - I jumped with excitement.  And bearing in mind that my MP3 player has died a sad death, I'm at the mercy of the establishment's music.

Hostel Life - I'm loving it!  Some of the hostels have been quiet as it is the low season, but I have bumped into some cool people so far.  And ended up heading out/travelling with them.  It's the perfect way.  It took me a while to get into a routine with packing and unpacking, but have it down to military precision now.  Not everywhere has warm showers, which at the start was worrying - but how things change.  Now I crave cold showers.  In the hostel in Bocas it was warm - I wanted it cold!  It's so refreshing after being out in the humid, sticky heat.

And finally - The Honey Badger.  Mentioned him in a earlier post and forgot to add the link.  He just doesn't care - which has been pretty much our attitude to most things when it comes to decisions and what we are doing.  Check it out here (some bad language in case any kids are watching) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4r7wHMg5Yjg

Tuesday 18th October - Prison Break

Time to leave Bocas del Toro and head to Panama City.  It's a long day travelling.  Emily has left our little troupe as she's off back to Costa Rica, so it's me, Jason and Dirk.  We make our way from Bastimentos to Almirante on boat to get the bus.  One of the girls who worked in the hostel is on our boat and thankfully helps us get a taxi from the harbour to the bus station via an ATM.  Almirante isn't really the best place in the world so having someone help us out was prefect.  We get to the bus station early - four hours early!  And there's nothing to help us kill time except the prison cell cafe beside it - ironically called Amistad.  I would have taken a photo but didn't want to risk taking out my camera.  It really was that bad.  But after an incident free wait, we get on the bus.  The longest journey so far.  It's an overnight bus, but I didn't sleep at all, maybe an hour here and there.  We finally arrive in Panama City and straight to the hostel - Luna's Castle in the Casco Viejo area.  It's 5.30 a.m. and I'm brain dead.

Time to crash on the sofas and wait for check in at 8 a.m.

Wednesday 19th October - Pasitos en Accion

After very little sleep, get up at 8 a.m. to check in.  When I wake up, stroll over to the balcony to a very unexpected view.  When we arrived in the middle of the night it was still dark.  Now in the morning light, across the bay is a Manhattan skyline.  Not what I expected of Panama City at all.  After a cold shower to wake me up, we head out to explore the city.  Take a walk around Casco Viejo - the old quarter - and come across what looks like a military or police band playing by the waterfront.  Then decide to head over to get amongst the skyscrapers.  After a 45 minute walk, need food.  I should have known better than to buy in the downtown area, but decided to get a Quizo Sub (kind of like Subway) and it stings me almost $10.  Dirk found a hot dog for $0.75 earlier.  Lesson learned.

After a taxi ride back to the hostel, it's time to chill out and have a beer In the garden area where we meet three girls from Montreal, Canada, who are eager to play guitar - Johanna Joseph, Layal Turk and Jennipher Carreiro.  Excellent.  A bit of a session.  Something I haven't had in a long time.  The girls know Spanish songs so, curious as to why, I ask them.  They explain that they wanted to learn Spanish after being in Nicaragua in January and did it through learning and translating songs, watching Spanish films and hunting out Latinos to talk to in Montreal.  Their Spanish is great.  Think I have found a new way to hopefully improve my Spanish, which is pretty woeful - still.  I manage my only song on the guitar that anyone else knows - Britney's 'Hit Me Baby One More Time' - really have to increase my catalogue.

After a food break and while waiting for Happy Hour to start ($0.50 drinks are always a good thing), I introduce everyone to Crusher - we're using a bottle of rum!  So much fun.  Then we hit Happy Hour in the hostel bar.  Even though we are all a bit exhausted we end up having a brilliant night.  It's the best hostel bar so far.

As with most people you meet, the conversation usually involves, 'Where have you been?  Where are you heading next?'.  It's great for getting suggestions and finding people to travel with.  But when talking to Johanna I get an unexpected and amazing answer.  In January 2011 they went volunteering in Nicaragua, and after getting back to Canada decided they wanted to do more to help out the people there.  So they have now set up an NGO (non-governmental organisation) called Pasitos en Accion (Steps in Action) and are en route back to Santo Tomas del Norte to help the community of Los Jobitos in Nicaragua.  The charity has three sustainability and development projects: Water Sanitation, Education (school supplies and scholarships) and a Micro Financing Grain Project. Pretty impressive.  They are doing this with three other people, Janessa Culliford, Nicole Zaki and Lili Changizi.  I have to say that of all the people I have met so far, these guys have impressed me the most.  While I'm gallivanting around the globe hunting out volcanoes, other people are actually giving something back.  It has made me think more about putting effort into finding some volunteering work while I'm on my trip.

Thursday 20th October - Camden Lock

After so little sleep the previous night, and after getting to bed early (ish), a long lie in was definitely needed.  I just forgot to tell the renovators working in the room next to me.  When I woke up I couldn't work out if the pounding in my head was from the game of Crusher the night before or the elephants that were being thrown about in the next room.  Bleary-eyed and exhausted, it's time for the make-your-own breakfast in the hostel.  They provide the raw materials for pancakes.  You do the rest.  All easy enough - if you remember to turn on the hob rings that is.  Not something I can manage this morning, but it's edible.

Being in Panama City I have to go and see the world famous Panama Canal.  Upon arrival, we all made our way to the viewing gallery and see, well, a boat in a canal - accompanied by a running commentary of every trickle of water that flowed between the locks.  There was a movie that you could watch if you paid and extra $3, but I was so underwhelmed I didn't even care that I wouldn't get to see it.  There was a very bizarre gift shop selling surreal Panama Canal trinkets.  The only surprising facts I took away from it all were how narrow it was and how enormous the ship was.  Other than that, may as well have been at Camden Lock - at least there I could have sat and had a beer in The Constitution while listing to some open-mic folk songs.

So it's back to the hostel to get ready for a big night out - Jason leaves us tomorrow.  Last night we were talking about how long Jason, Dirk and I had been travelling together and were astonished to discover it was just over a week.  Felt like almost a month - and that's for all the right reasons.  We did so much and had such a good laugh.  So as Jason leaves the troupe tomorrow a night out was required - and what a night it was.

Joined by Johanna, Layal and Jennifer, we hit Happy Hour again and then head to a salsa club - thwarted - private party.  So after being led through the streets by a very helpful local to check out a few bars, we decide the hostel bar is best - and it really is.  It's open to all, not just hostel dwellers, and it's the busiest bar we saw.  One of the best night's so far which ends in the very wee hours after being ferried around the hostel by an over zealous bouncer.

Tomorrow we head to the Bahá'í House of Worship.

Friday 21st October - Bahá'í

Thanks to a wake up call, I just about get up to see Jason before he leaves.  It was a big night.  After struggling through another almost disastrous episode of pancake making, we get the taxi to the Bahá'í House of Worship.

The Bahá'í religion is one I had never heard of until Layal invited us along with them to the  House of Worship in Panama City.  There are only seven of these around the world and after hearing about the religion it sounded very interesting.  This is probably an over simplified explanation, but the Bahá'í religion aims to encompass all religions, believing that all religions believe in the same god, and that through the Bahá'í religion everyone can be united.  There are no priests/preachers as such.  Everyone is equal - man, woman, race, cast, nationality.  I'm not a religious person, but to me that sounds just about right.

The House of Worship is on the top of a hill overlooking Panama City.  When we reach it, the whole area is so peaceful and serene.  We are the only visitors.  The noise of the city below has disappeared.  It's the perfect location.  There are immaculate gardens surrounding the central building.  Walking along the footpath around the central dome there are amazing views across the mountains and down into the freeways and the city.  You can see the city, but it seems a million miles away.  It's somewhere you could sit for five minutes and discover an hour had passed.  There are two woman tending to the inside of the building.  The girls talk to them in Spanish, but I forget to get the details of what they spoke about.  We then watch a video about the history of Bahá'í.  After, it's time to get the taxi, leaving behind the tranquillity and once again - and all too quickly - back into the cacophony of the city.

Once back at the hostel, the tiredness of the late nights catch up with everyone.  After attempting to watch A Clockwork Orange (I forgot how long that film was, had to give up in the end, far too much concentration required) we get treated to dinner made by the girls - the most filling food I have ever eaten (can't remember the name of the dish).

Tomorrow I fly to Bogota, Columbia.  It's my last night travelling with Dirk, and also will be leaving the girls behind as they head in the opposite direction to Bocas del Toro.  I'll be on my own once more as I make my way south to discover the wonders of South America and hunt out a few more volcanoes.  Over a few final drinks with everyone, I wonder if I have I peaked too early with the people I've met.

Saturday 22nd October - Bogotá Bound

I hate travel days.  That's becoming clear.  And this is the first flight I've had to get since I landed at San Jose.  It's ironic how the worst part about travelling is the actually travelling.  So after saying goodbye to the girls (I'll hopefully see them in Montreal some day, Canada is very high on my list of destinations to visit in the next few years) and after almost missing my taxi, and parting ways with Dirk to finally break up the troupe, I head to the airport.  I'm really hoping to bump into Jason and Dirk again on my trip as they are heading to the same areas.

AT the airport, I get checked in.  All good.  Then I go to get through security and hand over my passport.  The guard, who is carrying a gun, ushers me to one side.  Studies my passport intently.  While other passengers are allowed to stroll on passed, he picks up his radio, says something in Spanish followed by, 'Mark Daniel Graham'.  'M. A. R. K. D. A....' and so on until he has spelt out my full name and given my date of birth to whoever is on the other end.  Other passengers still stream by.  Lots of conversation now commences while he looks at me, looks at passport, talks more, then silence.  I don't know where to look.  I don't know what's going on.  Eventually after another few blasts of Spanish over the radio, he studies my boarding pass, laughs, turns to his colleague, says something, laughs, she laughs and he lets me through.  Am I the brunt of some international immigration joke?

Rest of journey is painless.  Somehow end up at Platypus Hostel.  It's too quiet and noisy at the same time and I don't like it.  The walls are paper thin.  When someone talks in another room, you swear they are in your room.  When someone walks it's like someone herding cattle in the room above.  Will be moving to Hostel La Pinta tomorrow on Ravi's recommendation.  It's sounds much better.

Costa Rica - Puerto Viejo, Panama - Bocas del Toro

Tuesday 11th October - Wash Out

Well today was a day that didn't go to plan at all.  I got up and wanted to do some essential shopping, but after sorting myself out and on verge of leaving the hostel, the heavens opened, and pretty much stayed that way for the whole day.  Trapped in hostel.  But it wasn't all bad.

Jason, the guy from Stockwell, is doing the same trip as me to Columbia.  I had heard mention of a boat trip from Panama to Columbia and it sounds excellent.  Five days on a boat stopping off at and staying overnight on islands.  So that's the plan.  Jason knows all the details so leaving it in his hands.  Spent most of the evening chatting with Louise, the girl from Letterkenny.  Good laugh all day.  Off to Puerto Viejo in south-east Costa Rica as a first step to getting the boat to Panama.  A beach.  Much needed after this awful weather in San Jose.  Will not be sorry to see the back of San Jose.  The Costa Rica adventure is almost over.

Wednesday 12th October - Puerto Viejo

I know I really have to get used to these bus journeys, and the four-and-half hour trip from San Jose to Puerto Viejo is a mere hop, skip and a jump compared to others I'll be on, but they really need better buses and seats.  So far, the pain after each journey has disappeared in seconds when I see the place I've arrived at, and Puerto Viejo is no exception.  It's the first time I can truly say I've been to somewhere that looks like a tropical paradise.  And that was just while trudging along the road with full backpacks heading to check-in at Rocking J's.  In tow is Jason and two others guys from the San Jose hostel, Sandro and Dirk.

The evening is spend eventually finding a place to eat and eventually getting our food after some serious discussions on cannibalism.  It's scary what extreme hungry can turn into.  Then finished the night at Mango, which appears to be the happening place in Puerto Viejo.

Costa Rica is expensive (compared to what I was budgeting for anyway) so time here will be limited.  Need to get south where living will be cheaper.

Thursday 13th October - Show Me The Money!

Another day, another dollar.  No wait, I mean no dollars at all.  This day turns into a waiting game.  After deciding to spend another night in Puerto Viejo, take a walk to the ATM to get money, and it's not working.  Try next one.  Same story.  Then as we talk to people we slowly discover that everything is down.  No phones.  No mobile signal.  No card machines.  No internet.  No ATMs.  But worst of all, no money.  And I have no cash on me.  Well, I have $5 but who knows how long this will last so I'm afraid to spend it.  The waiting game begins.  But I can't really complain too much.  It's not a bad location to have to wait.  Walking along Caribbean beaches, lounging in hammocks, it's a hard life.  After six hours, I stroll along the road and hear someone on a mobile phone.  Finally.  ATMs back up again.  Money available.  I had images of hunting coconuts and making an improvised fishing rod to survive for a few days.  I devour dinner, have a few relieving drinks and early night.  It's Adios Costa Rica and Hola Panama tomorrow to get a connection for the boat to Columbia.  Going to be a long day in transit.

Friday 14th October  - Out-Nerded

It's an early shout to get the bus at 7.30 a.m. to Bocas del Toro in Panama.  We have to cross the Costa Rica-Panama border on foot, across a rickety disused railway bridge.  Careful  foot placement on the sleepers proved difficult carrying my rucksack and belongings. Then a 45-minute queue in the sweltering heat to get passport stamped.  Jump on bus again towards Bocas.  Get chatting to Emily on the bus.  Emily is from Melbourne but lived in Clapham for past few years.  There's that small world popping up again.  Think it's going to be a theme on this trip going by the happenings so far.

Today's journey was supposed to be Puerto Viejo - Bocas del Toro - Panama City - San Blas to get the boat to Columbia.  That didn't happen.  After arriving in Bocas we decide to ditch the boat idea.  A lot of things seemed to be standing in the way of it going smoothly and images of this continuing and the boat sinking on us made that decision.  Book into Heike Hostel in Bocas with Emily joining our growing numbers.

Thankfully Panama is cheaper.  While out for some food and drinks an immense storm rolls in with amazing rain and thunder.  A crab appears from a storm drain and gingerly makes its way across the road before getting the fright of it's life and almost sushied by two cars.  He survived.

Now It's not very often that I get out-nerded when talking to someone I just met.  Most people generally make a quiet but quick exit if I start to go into too much detail about my university stuff (and rightfully so, I would too).  While chatting to a girl from our dorm, Sandy, she tells me all about her Matlab project.  Yes!  A fellow nerd.  Was pretty cool stuff too.  Made my night.

After spending the evening organising revolutions on Toyota jeeps, realising that the Honey Badger really knows how to treat life and laughing so much my jaw began to hurt, we all ended up in a couple of bars which had piers with crystal clear water that just compelled you to jump in.  But I resisted.  It would have ended in tears.

Saturday 15th October - The Day The Music Died

On Sandy's recommendation, me, Jason, Emily and Dirk decide to head off to Bastimentos, another island in Bocas del Toro and check in to Bocas Bound hostel.  Next stop, the beach.  My first swim in the Caribbean Sea.  It's fantastic.  The clear water must be 28 degrees.  The beach itself is so picturesque with jungle as the backdrop.  I think I'm gonna be relaxing here for a couple of days.  Panama was not on my list of destinations at all.  But this is just too good to leave.

This morning I decided to invest in a little portable speaker, something I've been craving for ages but couldn't find.  I was missing listening to good music.  The music in the hostels here pains me and everyone else.  Sometimes they play the same rubbish song five times in a row.  So armed with my new speaker I dig out my trusty Creative Zen which has been through many wars with me over the years, only to discover it has finally succumbed to my mistreatment.  Devo.

Sunday 16th October - It's a Jungle Out There

Today I decided it was time for some trekking.  After spending too much time doing nothing strenuous, I needed something a bit more active.  So armed with a map from the hostel front desk, off I went at 11.30 a.m.  I'm not too sure who or what is to blame here but I'm blaming the map.  The first 20 minutes were all fine but it didn't take long to realise I had no clue where I was going.  The hiking trails on the map were just about visible in the undergrowth.  But the last time they were trekked must have been 1927. I genuinely should have had a machete for this trek.  But undeterred I struggle through trees, over trees, under trees, onto beaches, through steams, over bridges made out of rotten fallen trees, through ankle-deep mud.  This trail doesn't exist, I'm creating it at this stage.  After about one-and-half hours I stumble across a clearing in the forest which has a disused bar/hut.  Time for a rest.  This is exhausting.  After collecting myself again, time to march on.  At least at this stage the forest has thinned a bit, and then it all becomes worthwhile.  I come across amazing private little inlets and beaches deserted of people.

After two hours, I bump into a couple coming in the opposite direction who shout, 'Ah finally, a human, a human'.  They tell me that after another short distance I'll not be able to go any further unless I want to swim across a river.  I think that's my limit.  I head on for a bit more, but come to a long log bridge and decide time to head back - this time taking a more inland trail.  Much hillier but at least I'm not making it myself.  On the way back I again bump into the couple.  We walk together and get chatting.  They have a boat in the marina.  I tell them about the boat trip I was supposed to do to Columbia, and simultaneously they turn round and say 'No!  Don't do it' and go on to explain how awful the journey is and how rough the sea is.  Think I dodged a bullet.

I loved every minute of my trek.  

But after an exhausting three hours of trail blazing, I finally find my way back to the hostel, famished, and quickly devour my lunch.  Just in time to check my email and discover I should have a ticket for Golden Plains in Melbourne in March.  Fantastic news.  Thank you Ali!

Costa Rica - Santa Elena, Poas, Irazu

Thursday 6th October - Santa Elena Reserva - Monkey Business

The day was spent up around the Santa Elena Reserva - a cloud forest, with lots of wildlife, but the animals know the trails well so stay away to avoid the humans.  We took the longest trek - 4.8 km.  Really beautiful forest, walking through damp air and the constant sound of dripping water from the trees.  But wildlife was absent, well until about half way round.  As we walked along, a distinct commotion could be heard high in the trees which both Katharine and I stopped to investigate.  Monkeys!!   We were told the forest was at too high an altitude for monkeys but there they were having a good look at us.  Slightly clumsy monkeys it has to be said as they kept jumping onto the branches and breaking them.  Just at that point a few of the forest workers happened to pass by so we pointed out our new friends in the trees.  They had a quick look before imparting a bit of local knowledge: 'Be careful.  When they get angry they try to hit you with those branches'.  Right, not clumsy monkeys.  Angry monkeys.  Interesting. A few seconds after this, a huge branch came crashing down about 10 metres away from us.  Time to move on.  Just as we did, another one comes down, this time in the very spot we had been standing.  Right, time to move on a little quicker.  Forget taking photographs, these guys mean business.  After a few quick steps to get away from them, we stop and can hear what we think are the monkeys calling to each other, or maybe rallying the troops, either way, moving on quick was definitely the best idea.  Phew.  Escape.  But only for a few minutes.  After about another 100 metres the calls are back.  Katharine looks up and there it is again, coming after us.  I can't see.  Then suddenly Katharine sees him make a great big leap in our direction.  THUMP!  Another huge branch comes crashing down.  GO!  As Katharine points out the missed photo opportunity, I point out the need for survival and how ironic it would be if on a volcano seeing tour my death was going to be by angry-branch-throwing-monkey.  Thankfully that was the end of our brush with nature for the day.  These adventures are just getting better and better.

 After our great escape, we then spent the rest of the afternoon at a Hummingbird Garden, Butterfly Garden and Reptile House with guided tours of the latter two.  Think if I'd known about the poisonous snakes in Costa Rica, the monkeys would have been the least of my worries in the cloud forest.  Certainly did those activities in the right order.

Friday 7th October - San Jose - Part II

After an early wake up call to get the 6.30 a.m. bus back to San Jose, checked in and then explored the city again, this time with a better tour guide than me - Katharine.  I think maybe my dislike of cities leads me to not investigate enough what there is to see.  We took a quick walk around the main stripe and visited the main cathedral in Costa Rica.  Beautiful alter it has to be said.  Then wandered around and spotted a few buildings I hadn't even noticed where here on my first visit.

Then a walk to the new football stadium.  Costa Rica played Brazil that evening so we took a walk to see if there was much happening and have a look at the stadium (pretty cool), but all seemed very quiet, just a few fans milling around and buying tickets.  We were very tempted to get a ticket, but they were just a little too much for me.  Boo.  We had contemplated taking a walk through the park beside the stadium on the way back, but luckily a local saw us, with cameras in hand and warned us against such a venture.  Very good of him to do so.  Mind you we were weary anyway as even in the middle of the afternoon it was deserted.  Never a good sign.  Oh except for a suspicious looking bloke relieving himself against a tree, full of potential for a more exhibitionist display.

Now one thing I haven't spoken about about yet is the Costa Rican people, or Ticos as they like to affectionately call themselves.  They are very friendly, polite, helpful people.  Yes, as with everywhere there are those out to get whatever they can off you when it comes to taxis, tours and the like, but I've never found myself weary or unease at any stage.  And even help me with my Spanish when I completely mess it up.

After the venture to the stadium, it was time to find a pub and settle in for the game.  Bar Rio it was in Los Yosos.  As the game approached, the bar filled with Ticos, horns and all, to cheer their team on, which of course we were helping with.  Costa Rica played well and didn't deserve to be beaten.  Brazil's goal was against the run of play.  But didn't matter, everyone had a good time and too many Imperials (the local Costa Rican beer).

Saturday 8th October - Goodbyes and Hellos

My travel buddy Katharine left today.  Had a great and very much fun filled week, with a lot of memories, beers and laughs.  Thank you Katharine.

Unexpected got to talk to a few of my family today.  Made me homesick but had to cast that aside right away!  It's only be a week and a half.

Spent the rest of the day doing exactly as planned.  Absolutely nothing.  Caught upon a lot of things and booked a tour to Volcán Poas.

The music in this hostel is something I can't describe,  Words like woeful, horrific don't even come close.  It's some weird Shabby Ranks type stuff played a high volume that drives holes in my head.  I can't even sit and have a drink while it's on (ok then, I do manage, but you know what I mean).

Sunday 9th October - Volcán Poas

Jumped on a guided tour to see my second volcano, Volcán Poas (2708 m).  After a two hour bus journey, I jumped out and quickly made my way to the crater edge.  As I approached and peered over the edge, I was greeted with the most spectacular view - of a cloud.  Damn it!  II had read about this possibility.  We arrived at 9.45 a.m., pretty much the time that the clouds like to roll.  But as I stared, filled with disappointment, the guide came along and assured us that if we waited ten minutes the clouds would vanish.  And he was right!  All of a sudden and in a matter of seconds the cloud melted away to reveal the crater with steam rising out of it.  It stayed clear for a long time.  Apparently that's not always the case.  Many tours arrive and leave without a single climpse of the crater.  The gods were smiling on me today.  Then trekked along a path to see an extinct lake filled crater - equally as beautiful.

Monday 10th October - Volcán Irazú

Reading the Lonely Planet sure does pay off.  Instead of booking a tour like I did yesterday, I discovered that there is a public bus, at a quarter the price, to Volcán Irazú (3432 m).  Again a two hour journey to get there, and this time the clouds were even thicker.  But just like yesterday, all that had to be done was wait patiently and they would clear, which they duly  did.  Having two hours before the return bus I had plenty of time to take it all in.  Almost no one else there.  It was serene, so quiet, barely even the sound of birds.  After a walk along the very edge, I sat and stared for a long time at the crater.  It was hypnotic.  Until another girl on the bus approached me and said, 'Is that our bus leaving?'.  Snapped out of my trance we quickly made our way back, contemplating the hike back if the bus really had left us.  Thankfully it hadn't.  After a close up encounter with some type of raccoon-like creature that wanted my food, I got the bus back to San Jose.

I spent the evening drinking in the hostel with a girl from Letterkenny and a guy from Stockwell.  It really is a small world.

As you can see I've actually started adding photos, and I've updated the last post as well with a few.

Costa Rica - San Jose, La Fortune, Arenal, Monteverde

Wednesday 28th September - San Jose

Well, I survived the flight, just about.  But not everything can go to plan.  My hostel pick up messed up.  He said he was there.  I know he wasn't.  And the hostel still charged me $10 for the pleasure of having to spend $20 on a taxi.  Ah well, I didn't care at that stage.  Just needed a bed!  So after an easy night and sleep, time to explore San Jose.

I have read in the Lonely Planet that there are stories of lost cities from Costa Rica, but none of the evidence has been found.  But there are areas yet to be explored because of the inaccessibility of the mountains and rainforest.  Hmmm...maybe the fabled lost city of Eldorado, where the streets are said to be paved with gold?  Well, one thing I can say for sure about San Jose is that Eldorado it isn't.  How do I know?  These streets aren't paved with gold.  How do I know?  Well, because they aren't really paved with anything at all!  There are gaping holes that would make a skydiver flinch.  I'm talking ravines here.  Holes in the ground where manhole covers just seem to have upped sticks and moved on to pastures new.  Thankfully this was something I discovered during the day, and not in a dramatic way in the dark evenings.

Now, I am not a city person at all, so my opinions on San Jose (and all cities for that matter) should be taken with a pinch of salt.  But I think there's not a lot to do here.  I walked downtown, that adventure lasted one hour.  I took a walk to San Pedro.  That adventure lasted one hour.  I took a walk to...  I think you get the picture.  What's the word I'm looking for here...oh yes, dull!

But all that said, what I need right now is a few days to chill out, and relax into this trip so it's perfect.

Thursday 29th September - San Jose

NEWFLASH! - Excitement in San Jose!  After taking  a walk to Spoon for a great breakfast I ran into the middle of a big student protest.  These Ticos know how to protest.  And at least peacefully .  Lots of music and floats.  It was the first thing I felt compelled to take my camera out for.  And while chasing this demo through windy and very steep streets, I ran straight into another protest at an embassy.  No idea what that one was for.  Maybe it's a pastime in Costa Rica on a Thursday.  Who knows.

The thunderstorms in Costa Rica are constant and amazing.  I'll never grow tired of spending the evening staring at the lightening and waiting for the claps of thunder which can physically shake you.

Friday 30th September - San Jose to La Fortuna

This is where the trip really begins...

After a five hour bus journey in cramped and deceptively uncomfortable seats, I arrive in La Fortuna, the gateway to Volcán Arenal.  It was 30C and monsoon rain, but after  one step onto the main street and glancing west, the pain of the journey instantly melted away.  In the distance, in all its glory, stood Arenal, towering over the town.  What a view!  I made my way to the hostel, Arenal Backpackers Resort.  More like a hotel than a hostel.  Excellent place.  After checking in, made my way to The Lava Lounge for a bite to eat and a drink.

An issue I've had in Spain and now here is  people coming up to me and instantly unleashing a torrent of Spanish at me.  My confused look leaves them perplexed.  'Hablo Espanol, pero solo un pocito' I reply, at which point they are amazing to discover I am Irish.  In The Lava Lounge, the LA owner actually replied, 'How are you not Spanish?  I swore you were'.  I wonder is this and the constant security checks related.  Do I look like some most-wanted Spaniard?!

After that, bumped into one of my dormers and spent the evening having drinks and back at the hostel playing Shithead.  I was the Shithead.  No surprises there.

Then...AFL Grand Final Time.  Collingwood -vs- Geelong.  After fighting to get it on the internet I got to listen to the second half.  Wish the internet had been messed up all night.  Enough said.

Something confusing and frustrating me about Costa Rica is the currency.  The official currency is Colones.  But everywhere accepts American Dollars.  The ATMs even dispense them.  I work in Colones though.  But, when I ask for something and they say the dollar price, I ask for the Colones price.  At which point they go, 'Oh, the exchange rate changed today, I'll have to work it out'.  Err...no!  Surely the Colones price should be fixed the dollar price move.  There's a scam going on there somewhere.

Saturday 1st October - La Fortuna -  Poor Spanish (book that is)

This trip is a time when I'm hoping that my Spanish will come on in leaps and bounds.  Not so far...  I have a Spanish phrase and word book.  After studiously checking a few words (plasters and padlock) I confidently stride up the street armed with my new vocab.  Well I crawled back after having to use some elaborate hand signals and play numerous charade games to get what I wanted.  This is not going to be easy.  I blame the word book.  The words for the two items I wanted - completely different here than in Spain.  From this point, I'm going to make the words up.  It'll be more fun.  Or else I'll come back a master at charades and speak no Spanish.

Katharine arrived, pretty much as I did, in the middle of a monsoon.  After being trapped in a coffee shop, spent the night in The Lava Lounge (again, but it is good).

There were three New Zealand guys staying in my room, Bridget and here son and his mate.  We've swapped details and all going to plan I'll be giving them a call when I hit New Zealand.  They said they live close to White Island which is perfect.

Sunday 2nd October - Arenal Tour - 'DON'T TAKE ANYTHING!'

A stroll around La Fortuna in 30C heat at 9 am and sunshine, we stop by Red Lava Tours to book a tour to Arenal that day.  I investigated it yesterday after it was recommended to me by a Canadian couple, who had it recommended to them by a 'local' on the bus to La Fortuna.  All booked to head off at two o'clock.  What a laugh!

The tour picks us up - Katharine and I all kitted out in our hiking gear as told to by the organisers.  Next stop - pick up two girls, one Costa Rican, one from Nicaragua, who are dressed for the beach.  We are then joined by another four Israelis.

The bus makes its way to Arenal Observatory Lodge, the perfect stop to see the lava flowing down the side of Arenal, especially at night,  Or at least it was one year ago.  We had been warned so knew what (not) to expect.  Apparently in October 2010 Arenal, which had been pouring lava for years, suddenly stopped for no known reason.  But it didn't matter.  It still looked spectacular.  The old lava flow trails were visible and it towered over us like a sleeping monster, with the sound of howler monkeys in the distance setting the scene perfectly.  Luckily the clouds had cleared and we could see the top.  On the journey up, the bus stopped and we could see smoke rising out of the volcano.  There's still some action happening there.  I wished for an eruption.  It would have meant possible death.  But hey, it would have been the perfect viewing spot.

After a short trek through the forest and a supposed glimpse of spider monkeys, we made our way back to see the sunset.  Now let me point out that at this stage it's raining, the clouds are black, there's the constant distant rumble of thunder and our guide is promising that a spectacular sunset is still possible.  As Katharine and I get left behind reading about the volcano and watching the seismograph in the museum, the rest carry on and we end up lost.  After being reunited with the group by an annoyed tour guide venturing back to find us, one of the Israeli guys recounts how the intrepid guide explained, 'Now we will hopefully see a sunset in the next...' at which point two huge flashes of lightening leap from the apocalyptic sky.  We saw no sunset.  But enjoyed a great lightening display.

Next it's off to the hot springs for a dip, a nice relief from the rain.  On the way we stop and we get to see a brightly coloured tree frog - impressive - before moving onwards to the hot springs.  Well, where do I start?  The weather has not changed.  Still raining, and for once in Costa Rica it's cold.  While in the bus, the guide starts to explain that we can take nothing with us but our swimwear.  This perplexes us.  It's pitch black.  It's raining.  We are in the middle of nowhere. We lavish him with questions, to which he has one simple instruction - 'DON'T TAKE ANYTHING.  Nothing.  It'll get washed away!'  So, after a quick change in the bus, we all step out into the dark, in nothing but swimwear, cross a mountain road, gingerly make our way down a rocky path, guided only by a few dim flashlights to, well, I don't know what!  There's a huge bin overflowing with garbage, a fast flowing stream with murky water that's kind of warm at times.  We all wait as the guide tests it out.  He gets very annoyed when I shine my head torch in his eyes, then proclaims, 'It's not right, it's too cold, too much rain water, we'll come back later'.  I'm thinking, 'Right, where's Jeremy Beadle?'  So after a much agreed blank look at each other, we all trudge back to the bus - cold, wet, and certainly not revived after a dip in a hot spring.  And pretty much here endeth the tour after being ferried back our hostel.  It was so bizarre it was funny.  You have to love days like these.  A bite to eat in a local fast food place and a drink in The Lava Lounge ended the evening.

And speaking of lava.  La Fortuna sign makers are gonna have a field day soon if Arenal decides to have a long slumber.  Everything is 'Lava this' or 'Lava that'.  No lava my friends.  Name changes needed.

But regardless, Arenal was my first volcano and it didn't disappoint.  They are beautiful, magnificent wonders of nature and always let us know who really rules this planet...THEM.

Monday 3rd October - Catarata La Fortuna

My favourite day so far.  Katharine and I went on a six hour trek to Catarata La Fortuna, a beautiful waterfall in the hills around Arenal, with a pool at the bottom which we swam in.  To get there the hike was mostly up hill, very steep at times, but was worth it.  Then down over 400 steps to reach the base of the waterfall and jump in the pool.  A welcome cooling-down swim after the sweltering trek.  On the way back stopped off at an eco lodge for some food, and then a trek back to La Fortuna.  I can't really explain why it was so good: the beautiful county side, Garden of Eden-esque waterfall, the views, the company, the chat, the houses, the suspicious chickens, the cute dogs.

Then some classy Costa Rican TV - Mañana Es Para Siempre.  What a laugh.  Benny Hill meets Day of Our Lives.

Tuesday 4th October - La Fortuna to Monteverde

Pretty quiet day.  Spent most of it relaxing by the pool in the hostel and then off by Jeep-Boat-Jeep to Monteverde.  The man-made lake we crossed is huge and has great views of Arenal in the background.  After the boat, a very steep and windy trip up to Monteverde.  Checked in and chilled out for the night.  Cindy - a girl sharing with Katharine at La Fortuna was there.  Ate more pizza than humanly possible and went to The Tree House for one very over priced beer.

Wednesday 5th October - Ziiiiiip Lining

As most people know, me and heights are not good friends.  I get terrified playing computer games that have high buildings in them!  So today was a massive challenge, but that's what this trip is all about.  A Canopy Tour - basically, flying along zip lines over the top of forests.  It was sensational.  Somehow I did it all - the big zip lines,  the Tarzan Swing (just about), and the best part, the Superman - a 1 km zip line 120m above the forest floor.  I did almost kill one of the instructors.  But it wasn't my fault.  On one line they said, 'Don't brake.'  Now I don't know about anyone else but to me that means - don't brake.  So I'm hurtling along, too busy looking at the views and screaming lots of words I won't put here, and all of a sudden there's a platform one foot away, with three guys in terror as I hurtle towards them and almost knock them off, while I almost plough straight through the tree.  The rest of the tour are standing, jaws dropped wondering how I survived and didn't take anyone else with me.

The Tarzan Swing was the worst.  For all the zip lines we were strapped in.  For this, you have to jump off a platform from a great height and trust the swing will kick in.  I backed off, pleading with the instructors, questioned everything, then thought, 'To hell with it' and just jumped.  It was so scary, but the adrenalin rush was intense.

Then the Superman.  By far the best.  Strapped in a Superman pose to a 1 km long zip line, they fire you off - as you fly straight out, the valley floor blow drops away and you end up looking down at the most amazing landscape from the the best possible viewpoint.  No words.  Check it out - www.monteverdeextemo.com

After getting back to the hostel, we pretty much turned on our heels and heading off with Cindy on the Don Juan Coffee Tour.  Very interesting.  A small plantation for coffee production on a small scale and only sold in Costa Rica.  The guide was very funny.  The main thing learnt - only buy light roasted coffee. dark roasted is just not the same as it has lost more of its flavour and caffeine.  Take note coffee lovers.

Spent the evening in a local Ticos bar, Amigos, with lots of karaoke.  Fun night had.  Wednesday night appears to be the big one in Monteverde/Santa Elena by the looks of things.