Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Costa Rica - Santa Elena, Poas, Irazu


Thursday 6th October - Santa Elena Reserva - Monkey Business
The day was spent up around the Santa Elena Reserva - a cloud forest, with lots of wildlife, but the animals know the trails well so stay away to avoid the humans.  We took the longest trek - 4.8 km.  Really beautiful forest, walking through damp air and the constant sound of dripping water from the trees.  But wildlife was absent, well until about half way round.  As we walked along, a distinct commotion could be heard high in the trees which both Katharine and I stopped to investigate.  Monkeys!!   We were told the forest was at too high an altitude for monkeys but there they were having a good look at us.  Slightly clumsy monkeys it has to be said as they kept jumping onto the branches and breaking them.  Just at that point a few of the forest workers happened to pass by so we pointed out our new friends in the trees.  They had a quick look before imparting a bit of local knowledge: 'Be careful.  When they get angry they try to hit you with those branches'.  Right, not clumsy monkeys.  Angry monkeys.  Interesting. A few seconds after this, a huge branch came crashing down about 10 metres away from us.  Time to move on.  Just as we did, another one comes down, this time in the very spot we had been standing.  Right, time to move on a little quicker.  Forget taking photographs, these guys mean business.  After a few quick steps to get away from them, we stop and can hear what we think are the monkeys calling to each other, or maybe rallying the troops, either way, moving on quick was definitely the best idea.  Phew.  Escape.  But only for a few minutes.  After about another 100 metres the calls are back.  Katharine looks up and there it is again, coming after us.  I can't see.  Then suddenly Katharine sees him make a great big leap in our direction.  THUMP!  Another huge branch comes crashing down.  GO!  As Katharine points out the missed photo opportunity, I point out the need for survival and how ironic it would be if on a volcano seeing tour my death was going to be by angry-branch-throwing-monkey.  Thankfully that was the end of our brush with nature for the day.  These adventures are just getting better and better.


 After our great escape, we then spent the rest of the afternoon at a Hummingbird Garden, Butterfly Garden and Reptile House with guided tours of the latter two.  Think if I'd known about the poisonous snakes in Costa Rica, the monkeys would have been the least of my worries in the cloud forest.  Certainly did those activities in the right order.

Friday 7th October - San Jose - Part II
After an early wake up call to get the 6.30 a.m. bus back to San Jose, checked in and then explored the city again, this time with a better tour guide than me - Katharine.  I think maybe my dislike of cities leads me to not investigate enough what there is to see.  We took a quick walk around the main stripe and visited the main cathedral in Costa Rica.  Beautiful alter it has to be said.  Then wandered around and spotted a few buildings I hadn't even noticed where here on my first visit.

Then a walk to the new football stadium.  Costa Rica played Brazil that evening so we took a walk to see if there was much happening and have a look at the stadium (pretty cool), but all seemed very quiet, just a few fans milling around and buying tickets.  We were very tempted to get a ticket, but they were just a little too much for me.  Boo.  We had contemplated taking a walk through the park beside the stadium on the way back, but luckily a local saw us, with cameras in hand and warned us against such a venture.  Very good of him to do so.  Mind you we were weary anyway as even in the middle of the afternoon it was deserted.  Never a good sign.  Oh except for a suspicious looking bloke relieving himself against a tree, full of potential for a more exhibitionist display.

Now one thing I haven't spoken about about yet is the Costa Rican people, or Ticos as they like to affectionately call themselves.  They are very friendly, polite, helpful people.  Yes, as with everywhere there are those out to get whatever they can off you when it comes to taxis, tours and the like, but I've never found myself weary or unease at any stage.  And even help me with my Spanish when I completely mess it up.

After the venture to the stadium, it was time to find a pub and settle in for the game.  Bar Rio it was in Los Yosos.  As the game approached, the bar filled with Ticos, horns and all, to cheer their team on, which of course we were helping with.  Costa Rica played well and didn't deserve to be beaten.  Brazil's goal was against the run of play.  But didn't matter, everyone had a good time and too many Imperials (the local Costa Rican beer).

Saturday 8th October - Goodbyes and Hellos
My travel buddy Katharine left today.  Had a great and very much fun filled week, with a lot of memories, beers and laughs.  Thank you Katharine.

Unexpected got to talk to a few of my family today.  Made me homesick but had to cast that aside right away!  It's only be a week and a half.

Spent the rest of the day doing exactly as planned.  Absolutely nothing.  Caught upon a lot of things and booked a tour to Volcán Poas.

The music in this hostel is something I can't describe,  Words like woeful, horrific don't even come close.  It's some weird Shabby Ranks type stuff played a high volume that drives holes in my head.  I can't even sit and have a drink while it's on (ok then, I do manage, but you know what I mean).

Sunday 9th October - Volcán Poas
Jumped on a guided tour to see my second volcano, Volcán Poas (2708 m).  After a two hour bus journey, I jumped out and quickly made my way to the crater edge.  As I approached and peered over the edge, I was greeted with the most spectacular view - of a cloud.  Damn it!  II had read about this possibility.  We arrived at 9.45 a.m., pretty much the time that the clouds like to roll.  But as I stared, filled with disappointment, the guide came along and assured us that if we waited ten minutes the clouds would vanish.  And he was right!  All of a sudden and in a matter of seconds the cloud melted away to reveal the crater with steam rising out of it.  It stayed clear for a long time.  Apparently that's not always the case.  Many tours arrive and leave without a single climpse of the crater.  The gods were smiling on me today.  Then trekked along a path to see an extinct lake filled crater - equally as beautiful.



Monday 10th October - Volcán Irazú
Reading the Lonely Planet sure does pay off.  Instead of booking a tour like I did yesterday, I discovered that there is a public bus, at a quarter the price, to Volcán Irazú (3432 m).  Again a two hour journey to get there, and this time the clouds were even thicker.  But just like yesterday, all that had to be done was wait patiently and they would clear, which they duly  did.  Having two hours before the return bus I had plenty of time to take it all in.  Almost no one else there.  It was serene, so quiet, barely even the sound of birds.  After a walk along the very edge, I sat and stared for a long time at the crater.  It was hypnotic.  Until another girl on the bus approached me and said, 'Is that our bus leaving?'.  Snapped out of my trance we quickly made our way back, contemplating the hike back if the bus really had left us.  Thankfully it hadn't.  After a close up encounter with some type of raccoon-like creature that wanted my food, I got the bus back to San Jose.


I spent the evening drinking in the hostel with a girl from Letterkenny and a guy from Stockwell.  It really is a small world.

As you can see I've actually started adding photos, and I've updated the last post as well with a few.

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