Monday, November 28, 2011

Cotopaxi


Tuesday 1st November – Galapagos?
This was a day of planning.  It’s time to get out of Quito.  Spent the day in the Mariscal area of Quito along with Elisha, Chris and William.  Chris was planning his climb of Chimbarazo after having completed Cotopaxi.  That’ll be me some day.  While in a few travels agents myself and Elisha investigated the prices for our Galapagos trip.  It’s going to be a lot more than I should spend but it is a once in a lifetime chance.  Will have to check out my finances.  But that can wait until after The Secret Garden at Cotopaxi.  It sounds amazing.  In the middle of nowhere with great views of the volcano and good trekking options.  Going to be leaving for there tomorrow.

After getting back to the hostel a crew of us head out for a bite to eat.  It’s a nightmare as we have to wait two hours for our food to arrive and a crowd of 12 gringos walking around Quito after dark draws far too much attention.  The highlight is the soup.  Julie has order her meal and it comes with a starter of soup.  One of the guys along with us, James, has just travelled 36 hours and is starving, so Julie very kindly hands the soup to him.  After a few mouthfuls, the groan and look of horror on his face is priceless.  A chicken foot has just floated to the top.  And he was once a vegetarian.  It looks vile, like a deformed baby’s hand.  Too good to leave behind so we wrap it up to bring back and photograph.  But I have to say, I tasted the soup and it was really good.

Wednesday 2nd November – The Secret Garden at Cotopaxi
I leave Quito after being there for too many days and head to The Secret Garden at Cotopaxi.  Finally getting into the wilds again.  I get the taxi along with David and Lauren, both from England.  Great guys.  We arrive at the hostel after a very bumpy two hour journey  The rain is pouring from the sky, but that doesn’t matter.  It looks fantastic.  We race from the taxi into the main living room to avoid the rain.  Inside there is a huge open fire blazing, a few sofas with guys relaxing to some chilled out music   It has the feel of an old farmhouse.  We get a bowl of homemade soup which tastes exactly like what my mum used to make every winter.  I could not have arrived in a better place.

The rain continues, accompanied by a thunderstorm, for a few hours.  When it clears Volcán Cotopaxi slowly comes into view.  It’s stunning.  Straight across from the hostel it dominates the skyline with its snow covered slopes.  There are a few smaller peaks on either side, but without snow.  I stand and stare at it for a long time, mesmerized.



Before dinner we chill out in the Jacuzzi with Rich and Rupert, our dorm mates, which has views straight at Cotopaxi. Then after dinner, it’s an easy night.  The dorm is a little house detached from the main building.  It has no electricity – only candle light and for heat there is a wood burner in the middle of the room.  Tomorrow we have an early shout at 6 a.m. to start our action packed days of activities.

Thursday 3rd November – Waterfall Jumping and Mountain Biking
Last night I got two hours sleep.  I think it must be the altitude as we are now are 3450m.  I was bright awake until about 4 a.m. and with a wakeup call at 6 a.m. I struggled out of bed.  But the first trek today knocked all tiredness out of me and woke me up for the day with a jolt. 

At 7.30 a.m. we all headed off for a 45 minute trek to a waterfall.  The altitude made the first part of the walk through forest and rivers pretty tough but we soon acclimatized.  We then arrived at two waterfalls.  The one closest we had to jump off - into freezing cold water.  The jump is about 4m high.  After getting changed and precariously walking barefoot across a rock and mud wall, we arrive at the top of the waterfall.  There were four of us brave (or foolish) enough to do this: me, Lauren, David and Rich.  After mentally preparing myself, when I got to the ledge I decided this is not a good idea.  I held back while the other three stepped forward and leaped off.  Their reaction to the cold was not encouraging, but they all looked like they loved doing it.  Maybe I should just go for it.  then it entered my head that jumping would be much more preferable than attempting the climb back across the rocks.  Plus, I’d be raging at myself for not doing it.  After all this trip is all about challenging myself.  Heights and being suddenly underwater are two things I’m not keen on – this will cover both those fears.  After a few encouraging words from our guide Peter,  I gingerly step forward, look down and jump.  As I hit the water the shock of the cold is instant.  I’m submerged for a few seconds and when I get my head above water I can’t even breath – my whole body has ceased to know how to function.  All I can describe it as is instant hypothermia.  The feeling in all of the toes in my right foot has disappeared..  I swim out of the water and can not stop shaking.  What a rush.  It was amazing.  I am now most certainly wide awake and ready to take on the rest of the day - a trip to the Cotopaxi Refuge.  David and Rich are brave enough to do the jump again, but I’m more than happy to get dressed and warm again. 

After trekking back to the hostel, we almost immediately jump into a van and head off to the Cotopaxi Refuge which is a cabin close to the base camp of Cotopaxi where climbers ready themselves for the hike to the top.  We are dropped off in a car park and have to clamber up a steep path for 45 minutes to reach the Refuge.  After many stops to try to get our next breath we reach the Refuge at a height of 4810m.  After stopping for some tea and cake we head back to the van and it’s time for the mountain biking. 



It’s just over 20 km back to the hostel and the first 10 km are down the side of Cotopaxi – a very steep and winding road (if you can call it a road, bumpy-dirt track would be a more appropriate term).  On the bike, I have to keep my hands on the brakes all the time and that’s not even enough.  The speed that you pick up without even peddling is scary at times.  I love every minute of this.  It’s been so long since I’ve been on a bike.  Towards the end it starts to rain, then pour, then thunder.  There’s mud sparking up everywhere and I get covered from head to toe.  Eventually we approach the hostel and now there are hills to get over.  I’m exhausted and have to get off and push.  Then reach a hill top jump back on, speed down and very quickly fall off after hitting the verge and losing control of the bike.  No damage down.  Get up and finally get back to the hostel.  I need to do more mountain biking.  I almost forgot how much I loved it.
Elisha has now arrived at the hostel too.  After dinner everyone in the hostel sits around the open fire having a few drinks and telling stories of their travels.  Chris, one of the volunteers, tells us how he walked from Georgia to Seattle in the USA.  Not hitchhiking, but walked.  Great stories to tell.  A very interesting guy.

Another volcano hike planned for tomorrow – Pasochoa.

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