Friday, November 11, 2011

Bogotá - Columbia


Sunday 23rd October – Wasted
What a ridiculous waste of a day.  I check-out of Platypus and make my way to La Pinta Hostel.  I get there at about 12 noon to be told that I can’t check-in until 3 p.m.  Columbia is going to be a struggle with the language.  The girl showing me around the hostel knows zero English, and my Spanish is failing me at every turn.  The guided tour involves me nodding at whatever she says and hoping she hasn’t asked a question (she did several times, we muddled through it).  I hang around and get caught up on a few things on the internet, it starts lashing at about 2.30 p.m., finally get allowed into my room at 3 p.m.  There’s one other person in my dorm and I find it very hard to believe that my bed wasn’t ready the minute I first stepped into the hostel.  Now with the weather being awful, I can do nothing else all day.

But the hostel is really good.  Very clean with hot showers - definitely needed as the weather here is the coldest so far due of the altitude of Bogotá – 2600m.  A very secure hostel, and it’s the little touches that make a place.  Each room has a huge locker for storing valuables – with a power socket in it.  Perfect as I can now charge all my stuff – laptop, phone, camera – without having to be right beside it for a few hours.  I know this sounds trivial, but it’s such a good idea.
Think my time in Bogotá will be limited as it’s not really grabbing me and need to head to Ecuador and my next volcanoes.

Monday 24th October – The Umbrella Business
Time to find out what Bogotá is really all about.  After lots of research last night and this morning I decide to hit the central area around Plaza de Bolivar and visit a few museums.  Museums are usually not what I’m drawn to, but apparently the ones in Bogotá are worth a visit.  But just as I’m about to leave I’m informed by one of the people at the hostel that all museums are closed on a Monday.  This city is really starting to bug me.  But undeterred, I’m going to explore.

I’m reliable informed the walk from the hostel to the central area is about 45 minutes.  That’s a good thing as I need to acclimatize to this altitude – it gets hard to catch your breath after climbing stairs but exercise is supposed to help with this.  After walking for an hour and no sign of anything I’m expecting to see I decide to ask for directions.  It’s easy, ‘¿Dónde está Plaza de Bolivar?’  The man I ask gives me a blank look, so I repeat the question, ‘Ah, el banco’ he replies and proceeds to give me very precise directions to the nearest bank.  I’m curious to know which word in my question even sounded like ‘banco’.  After thanking him and ignoring everything he said, I trudge on, no clue if I’m even walking in the right direction.  After about another 15 minutes, I spot four police officers standing on a corner.  Finally people who can help me.  I ask again, ‘¿Dónde está Plaza de Bolivar?’.  Yet again I’m greeted with blank expressions from all four.  I repeat my question.  In very broken English, one replies, ‘The bank, it is to the left’  ‘WHERE IN MY QUESTION DID I SAY BANCO?  WHERE IN MY QUESTION IS THERE EVEN A WORD THAT SOUNDS LIKE BANCO?  TELL ME – WHERE? WHERE?’  Obviously I’m screaming this in my head as annoying a Bogotá police officer is not high on my list of things to achieve on my travels.  I’m really starting to give up on Spanish.  It just gets so demoralizing.  But, after a few more hand gestures and a map I finally make it to Plaza de Bolivar, exhausted after a one and a half hour walk – but every minute was worth it.

On the walk down the roads were hectic – people and cars everywhere – but as you enter the square, that all disappears.  The traffic is soon a distant hum and the square is peaceful, except for the usual city dwelling pigeons being fed my a few of the locals.  After a brief walk around, I leave the square to the east and walk along a street that has high security all around.  I eventually find out that this is because it leads to the presidential residence.  Not knowing what any of the signs say, I break all the rules – walking on pavements too close to the fence, not going through the right entrances, photographing buildings I’m not allowed to – each time getting a ticking off from a heavily armed guard.

After finishing my wanderings I head into a sandwich shop for a bite to eat at which point a huge rainstorm drenches the city.  It’s brief, but I have thankfully avoided it.  Upon leaving the shop I discover a much hawked item in Bogotá which I never knew about – the umbrella.  It’s insane.  On every corner, at every bus stop, there are people screaming, ‘Paraguas! Paraguas!’  People are bouncing up to you with rucksacks full of them.  It’s impossible to avoid.  It’s hard to believe there could be such a high demand in a city that has rain all the time – surely everyone already has an umbrella?  The thought crossed my mind that if I run out of money, I’ll make my way back to Bogotá and set an umbrella business.  But then I realised that the market is probable already flooded.

After making it back to the hostel I got what I had been craving for days – a hamburger.  It tasted like manna from heaven after days of rice, chicken and beans.

Tuesday 25th October – Columbian Gold
Walking around Bogotá yesterday it was pretty clear that the street art is something special.  I saw a graffiti tour advertised so decided to take it and find out all the details.  But things didn’t go to plan.  I arrived for the tour and only two people turned up, so it was cancelled.  Hopefully going to try again on Thursday and hope more people turn up.  So with no tour, myself and Marjan (the other person that turned up) decide to check out the Museo de Oro – The Gold Museum.  It has been highly recommended by both all the guide books and everyone else that has been in Bogotá.  And it’s well worth it.  It’s just amazing how much gold is there and that all of it has come from Columbia.  Some of the pieces are so intricate, others are huge and seem to have been used as body pieces or armour (I have no idea – I’m making this up as most of the information was in Spanish and the English text was so small I couldn’t read it).  And to think all this was created thousands of years ago.

After that we head for coffee, drinks and a bite to eat and I now have loads of travel tips for Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia from Marjan as she has already travelled through there.
When I get back to the hostel I have a few drinks with Len and Antti, fail miserably at playing darts, but get yet more ideas for my travels.  Len and Antti are both rock climbers – something I want to try out.  After chatting to them for ages about it, I’m hoping to go to Huaraz in Chile to take some lessons.  The area is supposed to be stunning – high in the Andes with massive mountains over 6000m.  Sounds like the perfect spot for trekking and learning to climb.  Hope it works out.

Wednesday 26th October – Police Love
High on a mountain overlooking Bogotá at a height of 3200m is Cerro de Monserrate and that is where I go today.  To get there I have to get a cable car and after failing to find the main bus terminal I decide to take the one hour walk into town.  This becomes interesting when I stumble across another student protest.  London, San Jose, Bogotá – there seem to be students protesting all across the globe and somehow I always seem to run into them.  It’s just a small protest so I make my way passed and onwards to the cable car.  But just as I am about to get there I am stopped once more by another student protest.  This is getting weird.  Undeterred, I finally make my way up to Cerro de Monserrate.  The views over Bogotá are fantastic.  The city is huge, something that you don’t appreciate when walking through its streets.  The church is perched at the top of the hill, but walking around the grounds I come across The Stations of the Cross.  I’ve seen this in many churches, but this is something special.  It’s a long-windy-uphill path (difficult to walk up at this altitude) with life-size statues depicting each station.  What detracted from this a little bit were the lights and sparkly decorations being put up around them for Christmas.  A weird juxtaposition of Christmas and Easter.

After walking around, getting lost and constantly getting breathless I decided it was time to head back.  When walking to get the cable car I could hear something from the city below, I wasn’t sure what, but there was definitely something going on.  When I get back down to the city it all became clear.  As I walk over to the main street I come face to face with, yes, another student protest, but this is on a whole new level.  It’s crazy.  There are thousands of students marching down the street, chanting, spray painting the roads, banging drums, dancing.  But it’s all peaceful so I stop to see it pass by.  At a large intersection there’s a line of police officers dressed in riot gear so I decide that’s a good place to view from.  But a few minutes later a group separate themselves from the main protest and race towards the police line – which is about 5m from where I’m standing.  What happened next was not what I expected.  The protesters, instead of attacking the police, start hugging the police and the police start hugging them back.  It’s surreal.  Then as I'm taking a photo I get grabbed from behind.  Not knowing what’s happening, I pull back but realise it was just a few of the protesters grabbing me to join in the hugging. This goes on for a few minutes before the protesters rejoin the main march.  Then a few minutes after this the same thing happens except they run at a parked police van, surround it and lay their hands on it – a few climb on top and wave their banners.  This is not the type of protests I’m used to seeing.  After watching for another few minutes it’s time for me to head back to the hostel, but I soon discover this is not possible.  Trying to walk in the opposite direction of the march is difficult, and then I come across another police line.  A girl runs from the crowd and starts showering them with confetti.  Then things take a nasty turn.  A few missiles are thrown from the crowd at the police, then paint (or a strawberry milkshake, not quite sure which).  This is immediately met with jeers from protesters and onlookers alike, and a lot of finger wagging and as quick as it started the violent behaviour ends.  But I am left in the situation of not knowing whether to pass the police line in case it starts up again.  Getting hit with a missile is not what I want.  But a free strawberry milkshake would be nice.  After a few minutes the atmosphere has changed to the initial mood of happy protesting and I finally make my way back to the hostel.  During all of this can be heard the faint shouts of ‘Paraguas! Paraguas!’



Back at the hostel it was time for a BBQ,  Antti and Len had done the shopping, lit the fire, cooked the food, and I ate.  My skills were the washing up.  Great night with some metal music to help us along the way.  Tomorrow it’s time to do the graffiti tour again and find a metal bar to get some decent music.

Thursday 27th October – Bogotá Graffiti Tour
Today the graffiti tour happened.  Len and Antti came along too so we definitely had the numbers.  It was excellent.  Christian (from Sydney but now living in Bogotá) was the tour guide and had loads of details on the different artists – their backgrounds, their styles, where they were from, their collaborations.  Seeing street art and admiring it is one thing, but getting the extra details makes a big difference.  The tours started in the La Candelaria area.  Yesterday I had spotted some graffiti I recognised from Barcelona and it turns out the artist, Pez, is from Barcelona but has done work in Bogotá too.  We then got a bus to another area near a military base which has loads of space where the graffiti artists could show off their work.  Some of the work is amazing - from the abstract tags to very simple but effective designs.  If in Bogotá, do this tour.  It’s the highlight of my time in the city.  Check it out here - http://bogotagraffiti.com/ - http://www.facebook.com/bogotagraffiti



In the evening, myself and Antti went on our mission for a metal bar.  No success at the start, but finally stumbled across an extreme metal bar.  Goodbye reggaeton.  After a while we change to another bar and I get chatting to Marcela, a student in Bogotá, and ask the full details of the protests yesterday.  After speaking to a few others as well, I discover that a few weeks ago a similar protest turned very nasty and lots of damage was caused by the protesters and a lot of confrontation with the police, so this time the students wanted to make sure that didn’t happen and the reason for protesting was reported, not the violence – so that’s what all the police love was about.

Today I booked my flight for Quito, Ecuador.  I think I may have jumped the gun on that decision.  I’m really starting to like Bogotá plus I have found out that Halloween, my favourite time of the year, is huge in Columbia.  But I have to move on

Friday 28th October – Quito Bound
Seriously, you could not make this stuff up.  I get to the airport for my flight to Quito and check in.  All good.  I get through immigration.  All good.  I get to security, they scan my bag.  Problems.  They are only interested in one specific side pocket which they ask me to open.  In this pocket I have a book, a small pair of binoculars and a dome magnifying glass inside a leather pouch.  I show the book and that’s not a problem, they inspect the binoculars and hand them back.  Then she lifts the leather pouch with the magnifying glass in it.  She slowly opens it, pulls back the protective paper, stares at it and stares at me.  At this point I am taken to another desk so another security guard can inspect the mysterious item.  I am obviously perplexed.  Do they not have magnifying glasses in Columbia?  The new security guard slowly takes it out of the case.  I explain in Spanish about my eyesight (I have learnt the perfect phrase for that).  She puts it on her book and moves it across the page.  The expression on her face was at the same time priceless and scary – I swear she thought some kind of black magic had just happened to make the writing on her page all of a sudden become larger.  I am genuinely worried at this point as to what will happen next.  Then holding the magnifying glass at arm’s length she carefully places it back in the pouch and gingerly hands it back and lets me go on my way.
After an otherwise uneventful flight, I get to The Secret Garden hostel in Quito.  I immediately love this hostel.  It has an amazing view over the city with a really good roof terrace/bar.  The staff are friendly and there seems to be a good group of people in it.  Finally a hostel that isn’t empty, which I’m really glad about as I am now travelling on my own again.  A girl Kia overhears me asking about ATMs and offer to take me out to find one and have a walk around the city.  This is a good hostel.

I spent the evening having a few drinks on the roof terrace and then we all headed to an Irish bar in the new town area.  Normally I try to avoid Irish bars as I prefer to experience the local bars, but it ends up being a really good night. 

The hostel is having a Halloween party tomorrow night.  Perfect.

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